Selection

BY Eva

Choosing your sleeping bag

“The very definition of beauty is outside.” Adam Carolla

When selecting a sleeping bag, the temperature rating, shape, insulation type and additional features such as hoods and zippers are key considerations as well as the price.

Another option for ultra lightweight bushwalkers is the overquilt or integrated sleeping bag/mat system – more details below.

Temperature Rating Selecting the appropriate sleeping bag temperature range

Sleeping bags come with a temperature rating that is a guideline for what conditions the bag is most suitable for. However, everyone is different, and some people feel the hot/cold more than others, so be prepared to adjust accordingly to find something that best suits your needs.

The temperature rating is a guideline for what temperatures the manufacturers suggest that the bag can be used in. Manufacturers generally do in-house evaluations to find the ‘R-value’ that represents the insulative properties of the bag. Some manufacturer’s use the EN 13537, which is an European standard that aims to standardize sleeping bags manufactured and sold in Europe. No such standard exists in Australia, but many sleeping bags sold in Australia do follow this EN rating system.

The EN 13537 standard rating system tests sleeping bags using a manikin. The manikin is dressed up in a layer of thermal underwear and is resting upon a sleeping pad. The testers record heat loss by the manikin to determine the extreme and comfort limits of the bag. There is a surprising amount of detail that goes into ensuring accurate thermal measurements, everything from arm positions, through to weight of the manikin [note]Kuklane, Kalev, and Valter Dejke. “Testing sleeping bags according to EN 13537: 2002: details that make the difference.” International Journal of Occupational Safety and Ergonomics 16.2 (2010): 199-216[/note].

Sleeping bags often visually depict their thermal limits. Examples include Columbus, Mont and Sea to Summit:

Columbus

Mont

Sea to Summit

The three measurements listed as part of the rating are [note]European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Requirements for sleeping bags (Standard No. EN 13537:2002). Brussells, Belgium: CEN; 2002[/note]:

Comfort rating: Defined as the lowest temperature that a standard woman can get a comfortable night’s sleep.
Lower limit temperature: Defined as the lowest temperature that a standard man can still sleep throughout the night in a curled position.
Extreme limit temperature: Defined as the lowest temperature that a standard woman can still survive for 6 hours without risk of death (but with a risk of hypothermia and frostbite). This is intended to be an extreme scenario where you can survive but probably will not sleep.

Sometimes a fourth temperature rating is also given – maximum temperature – that is, the hottest conditions that the bag can be used in.

Men can generally get a comfortable night’s sleep at lower temperatures than women, so the comfort rating is based on a more conservative rating for women (unless explicitly stated as ‘men’s comfort’ or ‘women’s comfort’).

For the thermal testing process, a standard man is defined as 25 years of age, weighing 73kg and at a height of 173cm. A standard women is defined as: 25 years of age, 60kg, 160cm [note]European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Requirements for sleeping bags (Standard No. EN 13537:2002). Brussells, Belgium: CEN; 2002[/note]. However, none of us are standard! Temperature is a very personal thing, and it’s important to take into account personal factors that might affect how warm or cool you sleep.

Sleeping bag rating and general fitness level can affect how warm you sleep in general, but more subtle changes such as how tired you are at the end of the day or whether or not you’ve eaten well on a trip (going to bed hungry may leave you colder than if you’ve eaten well as your metabolism is a significant source of heat production overnight) can change your sleep patterns also.

Bushwalkers that walk in NSW all year round tend to have two sleeping bags: a summer bag and a winter bag – although this will vary greatly depending on the location of the walk and the forecast. This gives them the option to use the one that is most appropriate for the conditions.

Sleeping bag	Approximate months	Comments
Summer	October-March	On cooler summer days, or autumn/spring period, consider carrying additional layers.
Winter	April - September	On hotter winter days, use a liner only and put your sleeping bag on top of you as a throw over (rather than wrapped tightly).

A good rule of thumb is to select a bag with a comfort rating that is 10 degrees below the ambient temperature you expect on the trip.

CAUTION:

Weather patterns can bring unpredictable cold spells, so it’s important to check weather conditions relative to where you plan to walk before decided on the appropriate sleeping bag. If unsure, take a warmer sleeping bag and additional warm layers.
At altitude (e.g. Snowy Mountains), conditions are cooler and can change rapidly. Remnant snow patches from winter time can still be seen on Mt Kosciuszko during summer months, and cold windy weather patterns can persist. Take into account these highly variable and cold temperatures when selecting a suitable sleeping bag for an alpine trip.

A last word of warning: cheaper bags may not have undergone laboratory testing, and ratings may not be accurate.

Shape Selecting the appropriate sleeping bag shape

Similar to sleeping bag liners, sleeping bags come in a few different shapes.

Name	Example	Image	Pros	Cons
Rectangular	Summer example Black Wolf Jardine Hodded Sleeping Bag Winter example Shamocamel® Sleeping Bag Envelope / Rectangular Bag -5-15°C Keep Warm Ultra Light (UL) 220 Camping Outdoor Shamocamel® Single		- Cheap - Lots of room to move around	- Works best in warmer conditions because of loose material - Generally heavier and bulkier because of additional material so less suited for overnight bushwalking
Semi-rectangular (or barrel-shaped)	Summer example Sea To Summit Tk I Sleeping Bag Winter example Sea To Summit Tk II Sleeping Bag		- This type of bag is inbetween a rectangular and mummy, so it is still quite roomy while at the same time having less air pockets to heat so is a good insulator. - Comfortable, lots of room for shoulders and hips.
Mummy	Summer example Sea To Summit Micro MCII Sleeping Bag UD Winter example Sea To Summit Talus TsI		- Warm, body-hugging - Very effective at insulating - Lightweight and small volume due to less material	- Tight - Some people find them very restrictive and uncomfortable to sleep in - Generally pricey
Double-wide	Example Sierra Designs Backcountry Bed Duo 600 Sleeping Bag	n/a	- Efficient option for couples	- You probably need another single sleeping bag for trips without your partner

length Selecting the appropriate sleeping bag length

Regular and long
Sleeping bags generally come in two lengths: regular and long. It’s worth getting the right length as a bag that’s too short will leave you cold at the shoulders and neck, whereas a bag that is too big will leave your feet cold.
Check the specifications to decide on the right size by matching your height to the bag length.

Some manufacturer’s sell female bags that are designed to fit women better than the standard mummy or barrel shapes due to their shorter length, narrower shoulders and broader hips.

Half-bags
For ultra lightweight camping, half-bags are coming back into fashion (e.g. Hispar Half Bag). The logic is that the user already has enough clothing to keep their upper half warm (down jacket, thermals), so the sleeping bag only needs to be long enough to cover legs.

Hispar Half Bag

Kids sleeping bags
For people with petite build, it may be suitable to use a children’s sized sleeping bag (e.g. Coleman Kid’s Firefly Sleeping Bag). However, take care to examine temperature ratings and bag weights carefully as materials used in children’s sleeping bags are generally lower quality (and hence heavier and less insulating).

insulation Selecting the appropriate sleeping bag insulation

The insulation in a sleeping bag traps the heat your body produces while you sleep and keeps you warm.

Materials
Synthetic material and down feathers are the two main types of insulation used. For down insulation, duck or goose down (or a mix) are most common, although pure duck down is most abundant because more ducks than geese are manufactured and sold as meat, and so duck feathers are cheaper and more plentiful.

Insulation	Example	Pros	Cons
Synthetic	Sea to Summit Voyager Sleeping Bag – Vy3	Dries quickly Can insulate when wet Cheaper than down Non-allergenic	Generally larger volume and heavier Not as good at insulating (per weight) as down
Down	Sea to Summit Trek Sleeping Bag – TKI	Very effective insulator Packs to small volume Lightweight Loft retains form over a long time and hence is a long lasting insulator	Dries slowly Cannot insulate when wet Expensive
Hybrid synthetic-down		These hybrid bags contain a blend of synthetic and down feathers, with pros and cons from both materials. Sometimes they are blended, in others, they are layered with synthetic materials on the bottom and down feathers on top.	These hybrid bags contain a blend of synthetic and down feathers, with pros and cons from both materials. Sometimes they are blended, in others, they are layered with synthetic materials on the bottom and down feathers on top.

Down feathers are generally treated to become somewhat water resistant to some moisture, but not effective if fully immersed or soaked (i.e. down is water resistant not waterproof).

Some companies are moving towards ethically sourcing down in response to a number of issues but in particular live plucking. A few companies such as North face have put in place policies to ethically sourced down insulation and responsible auditing of all manufacturing steps including production and collection of feathers to ensure humane treatment of animals. Price alone does not tell you if the material is ethically sourced or the workers treated well.

Fill power
The fill power describes the insulation properties of the bag, or the down’s ability to loft (i.e. trap heat). It is a measure of how much air the insulating down can trap (i.e. its ‘fluffiness’), and generally speaking the higher the fill power, the more insulated the bag is. The fill power is a factor of how many cubic inches the insulation takes for each ounce. 300 is a low end feather an 900 a high end down.

Sleeping bags with a higher fill power rating are more fluffy and better insulators than lower fill power bags. For instance, the insulation in a 600 fill power sleeping bag is more fluffy and effective at trapping air than the insulation in a 400 fill power sleeping bag. Since high power insulation is a more effective insulator, manufacturers need to use less volume and thus can create lighter weight bags (including ultralight gear).

Fill power reduces over time as the bag ages and gets dirty. That’s why it pays to look after your sleeping bag to keep it as effective as possible!

Features Selecting additional sleeping bag features

At its most basic, a sleeping bag comprise of an outer layer, insulation and an inner lining, however, sleeping bags and stuff sacks do have a few additional features to consider which we’ll work through here.

Sleeping bag

Hood
Hoods provide additional warmth and comfort and help retain insulation across the body. However, in warmer conditions, a hood may be overkill. Some sleeping bags come with a detachable hood (e.g. Black Wolf Zambezie King -5ºc Hood Removable Sleeping Bag) giving users the option to carry it in cooler conditions, or remove it for warmer trips. Some ultralight bags do not have a hood at all (e.g. Feathered Friends Vireo Sleeping Bag)

Some hoods offer a pillow pocket where you can put your pillow securely inside. Others come with ‘clinch-able’ contour hood allowing users to wrap their head thoroughly (great for cold weather conditions) in the sleeping bag (or around your entire pillow also).
Zippers
Most sleeping bags have one side with a zipper to provide easy access into and out of the bag. For some bags, you can specify which side you prefer the zipper on (perhaps you find it easier to exit on the left than the right): e.g. Sea To Summit Trek 2 TKII Down Sleeping Bag – Regular.

For couples, it’s possible to zip up compatible bags to create a double bag. For rectangular sleeping bags, unzip the bags, lay them together with the insulation facing inwards and zip up corresponding zippers. See this video. For joining mummy-shaped sleeping bags, you must join a right hand zipper sleeping bag with a left hand zipper sleeping bag.
Pockets
Some sleeping bag designs include pockets for valuables such as money, passports or phones. Internal pockets are preferable so that you can grab items without opening the bag and losing all the nice trapped warm air.
Straps
Some sleeping bags have loops that can be used to connect the sleeping bag to sleeping pad. Also handy for hanging up sleeping bag to air.
Neck baffles
Additional insulation around the neck area to prevent warm air escaping (usually only on bags designed for cool conditions).
Draft tube
This is a thin insulated tube that surrounds the zipper area and prevents warm air escaping through the zip system.
Trapezoidal footbox
This design adds additional space around the feet for more natural comfort during the night (particularly for those people that sleep on their back).

Stuff sack

Compression straps
Compression straps make an enormous difference to reduce the pack volume of a sleeping bag. They work by compressing evenly around the stuff sack by drawing the straps downward and can reduce the volume by more than 50%.

Alternative Designs Overquilt and integrate sleeping pad

The sleeping bag, sleeping bag liner and sleeping pad system has been around for a long time with little change to the core principles: create warm space by insulating heat loss from body, particularly loss through the ground.

Recently, there have been a few new designs suggested for sleep systems that aim to optimise this setup, and ultimately save on weight.

Overquilt

An overquilt is a blanket style sleeping bag. It keeps users warm by covering the upper side of the sleeping, but not the underside (which gets compressed when you sleep on it and reduces insulation). Overquilts are often used by ultralight hikers or by hikers that use a hammock.

They are lightweight and versatile, enabling the user to adapt the bag to best suit conditions and some users report to use them exclusively over a sleeping bag. Take care when selecting an overquilt to match it to your needs, checking that there is enough insulation around the neck and head.

‘Integrated sleeping pad’, ‘pad sleeve’ or ‘hybrid sleeping bag/pads’
Another design is to integrate the sleeping pad into the sleeping bag system, creating one unit. The idea again here is to save on the weight and material of the underside of the sleeping bag that gets compressed and insulates poorly. Since the sleeping pad is doing most of the insulating anyway, this design does away with the underside of the sleeping bag altogether.

Source: https://www.gizmodo.com.au/2014/10/your-next-sleeping-bag-might-not-have-a-zipper-or-even-be-a-bag-at-all/

sleep

Sleeping Pad

BY Eva

Everything you need to know about sleeping pads

“Never waste any time you can spend sleeping.” Frank Knight

Sleeping pads provide a comfortable insulation layer between you and the ground. They serve two purposes: firstly, to prevent your body from losing heat directly to the ground, and secondly, to provide comfort and ensure a good night’s sleep. Recently, air-filled sleeping pads have become increasingly popular due to their comfort, lightweight and small packed volume.

Whether you have an ultra-light small sleeping pad or a simple foam mat, it’s worth taking time to think through how to care, pack and look after your pad to ensure that it lasts long and serves you well!

Check & Pack

Written by Eva

Use in the field

Written by Eva

Care and Maintenance

Written by Eva

Selection (choosing in the shop)

Written by Eva

Underquilt – for hammock users

Written by Eva

sleeping pad

Check & Pack

BY Eva

Checking and packing your sleeping pad

“ I already want to take a nap tomorrow.” Author unknown

Check
Check for wear and tear to the material (both top and bottom). Check that any valves are working (no hissing when closed and pressure on the mat) and that there are no punctures (check it stays inflated). Check that the material is clean and dry.

Pack
Although tempting to strap a sleeping pad to the outside of a pack, as seen in movies and many many other walkers, it really depends on the terrain as to whether or not this is a good idea. If you are expecting wide routes, little obstructing vegetation and no scrambling, then the chances of damaging sleeping pad are low. However, if you’re expecting even a small section of dense bush, narrow tracks or pushing packs over rocks, then there’s a good chance the pad will suffer quite a bit of damage when strapped outside. Try to have all you carry inside your pack.

If the only feasible way to carry your sleeping pad is to strap it to the outside of your pack, please do not wrap it in plastic garbage bags – these just get shredded on the track, and tiny bits of plastic will fly off into the bush. A classic way to destroy any hope of leaving no trace! If you need to strap it to the outside of your pack, then strap it to the very back of your pack where it will brush up against fewer plants. Avoid strapping it to the top, bottom or side of your pack, where the sleeping pad will be brushing up against rocks and plants often.

sleeping pad

Use in the field

BY Eva

Using your sleeping pad in the bush

“If you can't sleep, then get up and do something instead of lying there worrying. It's the worry that gets you, not the lack of sleep.” Dale Carnegie

In the bush, treat your sleeping pad gently. Avoid using it on sharp surfaces, always put a groundsheet down first. Choose the smoothest surface to camp on, and remove surface rocks or sticks that may cause damage to the pad.

Expect your sleeping pad to get a bit dirty in the bush – this is something you can deal with at home. However, there are a few things worth cleaning up immediately if they are spilt on a sleeping pad: insect repellent with DEET can damage material, and sap from trees can stick to material and be hard to remove. Wash off with a cloth soaked in water. If the sap is hard to remove, consider using alcohol wipes from first aid kit.

When setting up your sleeping pad, over inflate it slightly. Then when you lay down, you can release a bit of air until it feels super comfortable. Roll on your side and make sure your hip is not pressing against the ground.

Repairs in the field
Finding a leak in the field can be disheartening, to say the least, but if you carry a patch repair kit, it’s usually fairly straightforward to repair. Remember, the job done in the field doesn’t have to be the final one, it’s merely a way to get the gear to last until the end of the trip. Even if you don’t have specific patches for a sleeping pad, you may find that improvising a patch with tape or bandages from your first aid kit is good enough to make the gear last the remainder of the trip, and you can do a more thorough repair at home.

The first thing is to find the leak. Sometimes this is easy as you can hear the air leak or see a hole. Other times, this can be much harder, especially if there is a tiny hole or a really slow leak. In these cases, it works well to use water to identify the leak (for details, see Sleeping Pad: Care and maintenance). However, you need to make a judgement here: is it worth getting your sleeping pad wet? Are you able to dry it adequately before doing the repair and subsequently using it? If not, given that you have a slow leak, you may be better off just accepting the fact that the pad will leak a little over the course of the evening, and you need to re-inflate it during the night. This is usually the better option than sleeping on a semi-wet pad, with an improper repair job that only needs to be redone again and again. However, if you have good sun and warm conditions, and you can dry out the pad, then locating the hole by immersing the pad in water is helpful.

After finding the leak, use an alcohol-based wipe from a first aid kit to clean the area. Then follow the instructions on the patch and glue. Some adhesives need time to dry before applying the patch (this is called curing), while others don’t need a patch at all. In general, make sure that the patch covers at least 1 cm surrounding the hole, but follow specific instructions by the manufacturer.

sleeping pad

Care and Maintenance

BY Eva

Looking after sleeping pad in the bush

“Dreaming permits each and every one of us to be quietly and safely insane every night of our lives.” William C Dement

Back home, clean off any dirt, insect repellent, sunscreen or anything else that has stuck to the pad using a damp cloth. If left on long-term, these can cause damage to the material, particularly if chemicals such as DEET have been used in the insect repellent. For stubborn stains, use biodegradable soap. Once a season, do a complete clean of sleeping mat to remove body sweat and dirt, as they can transfer to a sleeping bag and compromise performance. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for washing. With inflatable sleeping pads take care to ensure the valve is closed with cleaning, drying the inside is tricky and it should not need cleaning.

After cleaning, dry sleeping pad thoroughly (but avoid prolonged periods of direct sunlight), and open the valve. Take care to dry both the interior and exterior of the sleeping pad. Interior moisture can lead to mould and degradation of the material. To dry the interior is to use a hair dryer on a low setting to partially inflate the sleeping pad (deflate and repeat a few times).

For long-term storage, follow instructions specific to your sleeping pad as some need to be inflated (e.g. therm-a-rest©), while others can be left deflated (e.g. neoair©). In general, self-inflating pads should be stored semi-inflated for good air circulation, whereas air pads should be stored loosely and not folded along the same crease lines each time. Choose a cool, dry place that isn’t susceptible to extremely hot or wet weather.

Repairs at home
Repairing sleeping pads at home is far more luxurious than fixing them in the field. You can focus on getting the job done well, with the right gear for long-lasting results.

If you can’t find a hole, try filling a tub or bucket with water and add a drop of dishwashing detergent or soap. Inflate sleeping pad as much as possible and splash a small amount of water onto the surface of the pad. Look out for tiny bubbles to appear from where the leak is. If you still can’t see bubbles, try gently squeezing the pad. Dry the area thoroughly with a towel, and mark the leak by drawing a circle around it with a marker pen. It is possible to have more than one leak, so keep looking even after you have found the first leak.

After finding the leak(s) then follow the instructions on the patch and glue. Some adhesives need time to dry before applying the patch (this is called curing), while others don’t need a patch at all. In general, make sure that the patch covers at least 1 cm surrounding the hole, but follow specific instructions by the manufacturer. Fixing leaks on a seam can be more challenging, so take extra care to patch well.

sleeping pad

Selection (choosing in the shop)

BY Eva

Choosing your sleeping pad

“A good laugh and a long sleep are the two best cures for anything.” Irish proverb

Selecting a sleeping pad is an important choice – it’s the main thing that will keep you comfortable and warm during the night. When you lie directly on the ground, heat is transferred away from your body to the ground quickly because the ground is normally much colder than your body and very conductive. This means that you will lose body heat and get cold. Sleeping bag insulation only works when it is expanded, so sleeping bags provide essentially no insulation between you and the ground.

You do not ‘lose’ heat as such. Heat is a form of energy that can not be destroyed, but it can be moved or changed into a different form. We tend to ‘lose’ heat from it being transfered from us to something else and this can happen in three main ways.

Conduction is where heat moves from a hot object to a colder object (or area) by moving directly through material, similar to how electricity travels along a wire. You feel this when laying on a cool rock, parts of your body touching the rock feel cold as the heat moves from you to the rock. This transfer can be slowed by putting an insulator between you and the ground.
Convection creates circular air currents as warm air rises (eg to the top of the sleeping pad) swapping with cool air at the bottom. This movement of heat can be slowed by creating small air chambers and other barriers to slow or stop this air movement. You can see convection in action in a big way above a campfire with embers been lifted high above the fire.
Radiation is the transfer of heat as a form of light, radiant heat is the main warmth you mostly feel from a campfire and when in direct sunlight. Most of the heat is in the form of infrared light, so we can’t see it, but it moves the same as light. Radiant heat can be reflected (with a mirror) or absorbed into another material that will then heat up (where it move again by conduction or convection). Shiny silver coverings on sleeping pads can help reflect the radiant heat back to you.

Everyone is different when it comes to preferences for sleeping bags, so make sure to try out a few different pads before making a decision. For those prone to pressure injuries, test out sleeping pad at home first before taking it on a bushwalk to ensure that your skin copes. Similarly, for people with back or neck pain, testing at home can help ensure the best pick for your walk.

Here are some examples of different types of sleeping pads with a comparison between various features.

Type	Description	Examples	Pros	Cons	Price
Air Pad	Air-filled mattresses that the user manually inflate before use. These tend to be thick and comfortable	Therm-a-Rest Neo Air XTherm Nemo Nomad Air 30XL sleeping mattress Exped downmat 7m	Small, lightweight, comfortable, compact. Customisable firmness based on how much air is put in. Can be very good insulator depending on style	Expensive. Can make loud crinkly noises depending on the material used. Can be punctured or rip, and therefore a real possibility of leaks. Not all have great at insulating because of the large open air spaces that circulate cold air directly beneath the user. Some manufacturers add insulation to the mattress to significantly reduce this effect.	$$$
Self-inflating	Self-inflating pads combine the warmth of closed cell foam with the comfort of open cell foam. Cells are covered in an airtight, waterproof material. Users inflate the pad by opening a valve and letting the foam inside expand, sucking in air. You can add extra aid if you want it firmer pad.	Therm-a-Rest® LuxuryMap™ Therm-a-Rest® ProLite ™	Comfortable, compact, excellent insulation. Customisable firmness based on how much air is put in.	More expensive and heavier than closed-cell foam.	$$
Closed-cell foam	Made of dense foam that is filled with small closed-cell foam that to reduce conduction and convection, thus retaining heat.	Therm-a-Rest™ Z Lite SOL™ Mattress Ultralon EVA Closed Cell Foam Hiking Mat	Warm, light and hardy (tend to last a long time). Cells are water-repellent, so mat is waterproof. No need to worry about punctures and can double as a seat around the campfire.	Not as comfortable as thicker pads, stiff and firm. Bulky.	$

Key features to consider:

R-value
This is a lab-obtained value that conveys the insulating properties of the sleeping pad. The higher the number, the better the insulation. Since the measurement is made about the resistance of a sleeping pad to heat transfer, the larger the R-value, the better it is at retaining heat (i.e. good for winter).

Insulation type R-value Lowest temperature

poor 2-3 0℃

moderate 3-4 -7℃

good 4-5 -10℃

excellent >5 -18℃

Of course, every person is different and their tolerance to cold will vary with the way they sleep and the sleeping bag they use. The R-values are what the pad can do at it’s extreme and not loaded with a person lying on it (this reduces insulation). Select a pad with an R-value that is higher than you expect to have a comfortable night.
Size
Sleeping pads vary in size by their thickness, width and length. Some bushwalkers prefer three-quarter or half sized lengths to save on weight. Bushwalkers may use clothes or other material to provide padding under their feet with shorter pads, but full-length pads tend to be more comfortable. As a general rule the thicker the pad, the more comfortable and few pressure points.

Black Wolf 3/4 Ultralight Self-inflating Mat 3.8cm

Even more extreme is the Klymit Inertia X-Lite Short Inflatable Hiking Mattress, with parts of the frame missing:

Klymit Inertia X-Lite Short Inflatable Hiking Mattress
Shape
Some sleeping pads are rectangular, while others are mummy-shaped, following the body’s natural shape. For instance, the Therm-a-Rest™ Women’s ProLite

Therm-a-Rest™ Women’s ProLite

This has the advantage to save on weight due to less material.

Surface material
Some sleeping pad surfaces are really slippery, causing your sleeping bag to roll off easily, particularly if you move around a lot in your sleep. Surfaces that are textured tend to have more grip and can provide a more comfortable sleep. Too much grip can then make it hard to move around. Some sleeping bags have pockets to hold the sleeping pad. If you have this design, then you tend to want more slippy pads to make it easier to get in and out.

Inflation time and chambers
The two factors that affect inflation time are the size of the pad and the type of valve. Some valves transport high airflow, meaning that the pad inflates quickly (far more enjoyable to inflate these pads after a long day on the track!). And of course, a three-quarter pad will be much faster to inflate than a similar full-size model. Some pads are self-inflating, while others need to be inflated by mouth. Orally inflated pads tend to be slow and over time can have mold build up inside the pad. To avoid mold growth, use a dry bag pump, as these not only make inflating pads much faster and easier but the bags can also be used to keep gear dry.

Baffles
Side rail ‘baffles’ are railings on the side of a pad that make it harder for the user to roll off the pad during sleep.

REI Co-op AirRail 1.5 ($90)

Insulation type	R-value	Lowest temperature
poor	2-3	0℃
moderate	3-4	-7℃
good	4-5	-10℃
excellent	>5	-18℃

sleeping pad

Underquilt – for hammock users

BY Eva

All about underquilts in the bush

An underquilt is used with a hammock to reduce heat loss to the air under the hammock. Underquilts are made out of the same insulation material as a sleeping bag and hangs beneath the hammock. The idea is to create an insulation layer underneath the sleeper that does not get crushed under body weight. Since crushed insulation is far less effective than fluffy insulation, keeping body weight off the insulation material provides a far more effective insulation layer for hammock users.

Some hammock users will carry sleeping pads to give them more options, for example if they camps somewhere with no hanging points, they can use a sleeping pad on the ground, where an underquilt would provide very little value. Most hammock sleepers find under quilts lighter, warmer and more comfortable then a sleeping pad in most situations.

Similar to sleeping bags, some of the key features to look out for when selecting an appropriate underquilt include:

Material
The two main material elements to consider for a hammock underquilt include the outer shell, which will be subject to dew and condensation from being out overnight, as well as the insulation materials.

The shell of a hammock must be durable and water repellent. Ideally, select a material that is non-rip (e.g. Ripstop material) to protect the underquilt from tears. Select materials with some sort of durable water repellent coating.

Just like sleeping bag insulation, underquilt insulation is either synthetic or down. Down has the advantage of great weight to warm ratio and compacts down well. Synthetic insulation tends to work better if it gets wet.

Size
An underquilt should be well fitted to your hammock for maximum insulation. Size differences in underquilts generally relate to the length and width of the underquilt, so check that these dimensions match well to the hammock you typically use. Select a size that insulates well but not so tight that it restricts movement.

Weight
Weight is obviously a factor for comfort in overnight hiking. Underquilts range in weight from as light as 210g (e.g. Thermarest Slacker Hammock Warmer) through to 400g (e.g. the Revolt) and more.

There is generally a trade-off with weight – the lighter it is, the more expensive it is! Light can also indicate that the temperature rating is not as high as heavier ones made from same materials, so make sure to check this out also.

Rating
Hammocks work well in a broad range of temperature conditions and follow a similar temperature rating scheme to sleeping bags {ref – link to sleeping bag temperature ratings}. Seek an underquilt that is rated to below conditions you’ll typically be using it in.

Some examples:

Name	Picture	Price
Thermarest Slacker Hammock Warmer		$
Thermarest Slacker Down Underquilt		$$
Flying Tent Underquilt 150 dark anthracite		$$$

sleep

Inner Sheet

BY Eva

Everything you need to know about inner sheets

“People who say they sleep like a baby usually don’t have one.” Leo J Burke

Bushwalkers use inner sheets (sometimes called ‘liners’) to provide a protective layer between them and their sleeping bag and add extra warmth. The insulating properties of a sleeping bag decrease significantly if the bag gets dirty, particularly with body sweat.

Sleeping bag inners reduce the amount of dirt, mud and sweat getting onto the sleeping bag and can also increase insulation by as much as 5℃. They are usually reasonably lightweight can be easily cleaned at the end of a trip because they are a separate easily machine-washable item.

Carrying an inner sheet increases your sleeping options. On hot nights, just use the inner sheet. On cool nights, use both inner sheet and sleeping bag. On in between nights you might sleep in your inner sheet with your sleeping bag unzipped. Back home, clean the inner sheet, and you’ve instantly got a fresh clean sleeping area again!

Check & Pack Checking and packing your inner sheet

When packing your inner sheet, make sure it is clean and dry, and check for wear and tear on the fabric, including thin parts or tears.

A great way of saving space is to pack your inner sheet inside your sleeping bag and compression bag.

If you can’t find your inner sheet, an alternative is to carry a change of clean long-sleeved clothes (e.g. thermals) that you can sleep in. This is a reasonable replacement for an inner sheet and prevents your sleeping bag getting too wet. Just be mindful that tight fitting clothes are not always a good idea when sleeping.

Use in the field Using your inner sheet in the bush

Caring for your inner sheet in the field is similar to caring for your sleeping bag – treat it gently, avoid using on sharp surfaces. Air your inner sheet out each morning before packing away. At bedtime, climb into your inner sheet then slide your sleeping bag around you.

Care and Maintenance Looking after your inner sheet

The two main properties of a sleeping bag inner sheets to think through are the material and the shape.

Shape
Sleeping bag inner sheets generally come in two forms – mummy shaped or rectangular/barrel.

‘Rectangular’ or ‘barrel’ shaped inner sheets are the most common shape. They are broad, leaving plenty of room for you to get in and out, and also move around in your sleep.

‘Mummy’ shaped inner sheets fit the human body shape well and generally feel tighter than rectangular inner sheets. They use less material than rectangular inner sheets and are therefore lighter. Mummy shaped inner sheets can sit neatly into mummy shaped sleeping bag.

Material
The main materials to choose from are synthetic polyester and spandex, natural fibres such as silk or cotton and fleece material.

Material	Image/examples	Pros	Cons	Approximate Price ($ - cheap; $$- moderate; $$$ - expensive)
Synthetic polyester and spandex	Kathmandu Sleeping Bag Liner Thermal Sea To Summit Expander Sleeping Bag Liner - Long	Moisture-wicking and breathable. Stretchy, comfortable material.	Not made from natural fibres.	$$
Silk	Sea to Summit Silk Travel Liner - Rectangular Mont Silk Inner Sheet Standard	Lightweight and compact. Absorbent and breathable. Feels nice on skin. Quick drying.	Pricey	$$$
Cotton	Denali Travel Liner White Envelope Single cotton inner sheets-yha - pillow slip	Durable and strong. Cheap. Feels nice on the skin.	Heavy and bulky. Does not insulate as well as other materials. If inner sheet gets wet, cotton takes a long time to dry out and is not an effective insulator when damp.	$
Fleece	Sea to Summit Thermolite Reactor Fleece Liner - Regular Stratus Fleece Sleeping Bag Liner (10°)	Very warm; feels nice and soft on the skin	Hard to use by itself on a hot night because it is so warm. Material is bulky and heavy, so takes up a lot of weight and volume in backpack.	$

Insect repellant
Some inner sheets come with inbuilt insect repellent for protection. Worth checking out if using open shelter designs such as a tarp without a mosquito net.

Extra features

Zips
Zips are an uncommon feature on inner sheets as they tend to add significant weight to an already lightweight item. Most sleeping bag materials tend to breathe well (and wick moisture away from the skin), so ventilation isn’t usually an issue.

The exception is for this are those thicker inner sheets that can double as a summer sleeping bag. For example, Sea to Summit Reactor Fleece:

Sea to Summit Thermolite Reactor Fleece Liner – Regular
Pillow pocket
Some inner sheets have an extra fold of material with room for a pillow. While the additional material adds extra bulk and weight, some people like having this style of inner sheet as it doubles as a travel liner for use in youth hostels with some bedding already provided.

sleep

Pillow

BY Eva

Everything you need to know about pillows

“I love sleep, my life has a tendency to fall apart when I’m awake, you know.” Ernest Hemingway

The perfect pillow is one that gives you a great night’s sleep, providing support and comfort throughout the night, but not taking up your whole pack! Depending on preference, some people prefer smaller or larger pillows, and harder or softer materials {ref = https://www.the-pillow.com.au/blog/choosing-the-right-pillow-for-healthy-sleep-relationship-between-pillow-and-healthy-sleep/}.

It’s worth thinking through whether you need a pillow. Some bushwalkers are comfortable enough with using spare clothing or jackets to rest their head on or even inflating a cask wine bladder. If you are comfortable doing this, it’s a great way of saving weight and space in your pack. This is definitely something to test at home first before committing to it on a long trip.

Check & Pack Checking and packing your pillow

Pillows are quite straightforward to check and pack. It’s simply a matter of doing a quick once-over as follows:

Check that the pillow is clean & dry: check the fabric both upper and lower.
Check that the pillow is working & undamaged: Check for wear and tear on the fabric. If the pillow inflates, check that there are no punctures and that the valve is still intact.

Use in the field Using your pillow in the bush

As with most gear in the field, make sure to treat your pillow gently. Avoid using it on sharp surfaces, and take care to reduce the amount of dirt or mud that it comes in contact with. Inflate the pillow a little more than you think you will need once laying down, release a bit of air to make it perfect. Consider placing your pillow in your inner sheets or sleeping bag hood to prevent it from running away.

Care and Maintenance Using your pillow in the bush

Back home, wash at the end of each trip following manufacturer’s instruction. Dry thoroughly, and store in a cool, dry place.

Selection Choosing your pillow

There are a few different options for pillows. Most simply, repurposing another item of gear such as a jumper or jacket, or carrying a separate item for the job.

The big tradeoff is pillow selection is comfort against weight. Generally speaking, the more comfy options are bigger and bulkier, better suited to car camping than overnight bushwalks. The other consideration is how you sleep – on your side, back or front – which again may affect pillow the style of pillow you choose.

People that sleep on their side tend to favour a thick pillow so that their head is neatly aligned with their spine. People that sleep on their front generally do not need a lot of neck support, finding that a small thin and flat pillow is best. People that sleep on their back find a medium support pillow the best.

Having said this, it comes down to trial and error to figure out which pillows provide you with the most comfort. It’s worth getting right to prevent aching backs and necks in the morning!

Here are a few options that overnight bushwalkers can consider:

Readapt clothing items already in your pack
Consider using clothing items such as a jumper or jacket as a pillow. You can sleep directly on the clothing, or create a custom-made pillow using a stuff sack or dry bag.

Stuff clothing into a stuff sack or dry bag so that there is a bit of bulk to the package, but it is still soft. Depending on how soft or hard you like your pillow to be, add more or less clothes. Avoid any sharp objects such as coats with sharp zippers or toggles. Move clothing around to ensure the pillow is even. Place stuff sack or dry bag inside a t-shirt or thermal to create a soft sleeping surface for your head.
Compressible pillows
Compressible pillows are filled with a foam, feather or synthetic fibre stuffing and can be stuffed down to a small volume using a compression sack. Compared to inflatable pillows, they are softer and better resemble a pillow you might use back home regarding comfort, however, over the night they do lose shape, and some users may find this uncomfortable. Down feather options provide the best insulation but tend to be pricey.

Examples are:
1. Therm-a-rest compressible pillow
  
  Source: https://www.snowys.com.au/pillow-small
2. Sierra Designs DriDown Pillow
  
  Source: https://sierradesigns.com/dridown-pillow-650-dridown/
Inflatable
Inflatable pillows are firm and lightweight. Users must inflate by blowing air through the valve. Without any interior stuffing, they fold up small, however, some make crackling noises whenever users turn their heads, so check the material.
1. Sea to summit aeros premium pillow
  
  Source: http://www.paddypallin.com.au/sea-to-summit-aeros-premium-pillow.html
2. Exped Air UL
  
  Source: https://www.bushcraftequipment.com.au/store/products.php?product=Exped-Air-Pillow-UL
Hybrid
Hybrid pillows are a combination of compression and inflatable models, with a compressible top layer to rest your head on but an inflated bottom. They bridge the gap between comfort and lightweight.

Examples include:
1. Nemo Fillo Elite Ultralite Backpacking pillow
  
  Source: http://www.paddypallin.com.au/nemo-fillo-elite-ultralite-backpacking-pillow.html
2. Exped REM
  
  Source: http://www.exped.com/australia/en/rem-pillow-m-0
Readapt a water bladder or wine cask
You might hear bushwalkers joke about using a wine bladder as a pillow, but some people genuinely find this a great way of repurposing an item into a comfortable night’s sleep!

Make sure the bladder is empty. Squeeze open the nozzle and blow air into the bag. When inflated to the appropriate amount, close the nozzle and wrap the bag in a shirt or thermal to muffle any crinkling and create a soft sleeping area. Although an old wine cask bladder is most common, any other kind of hydration bladder could also work.

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